Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and lively culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
